Ojos del Salado Shared Expeditions Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Ojos del Salado Shared Expeditions
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Posted by Vivianne Cuq, Jan 19 2021
What kind of expedition is it?
It is a mountaineering expedition crossing the Chilean highlands in 4x4 vehicles. Base camps are established, in which you sleep in 4-season North Face V24 style tents or similar. The base camp is equipped with kitchen and dining tents, where you have breakfast and dinner. In these dome tents, it is possible to meet at any time of the day to drink hot or cold drinks, socialize or eat a snack. From these camps, you leave for the ascents and hikes planned in the expedition program. These walks and climbs include a 5000-meter mountain and two 6000-meter peaks. 4x4 vehicles carry 3 to 4 passengers plus the guide, who is also the driver.
What are the requirements to participate?
Previous experience in mountaineering expeditions and climbs is essential. Mountaineering and trekking expeditions such as Kilimanjaro, Aconcagua, Tupungato, Annapurna, or Everest Base Camp trek are mentioned here just as references. It is necessary to have been physically active and in the process of physical training during the last year. It is required to have carried out similar expeditions in the previous three years.
Once you have sent a description of your previous experience and your background, ChileMontana could suggest you do some preparation expeditions before embarking on the Ojos del Salado Volcano ascent.
What previous training and experience do I need?
The best preparation for climbing mountains is merely climbing mountains. However, in the Ojos del Salado volcano case, we also recommend doing specific cardio-respiratory endurance, which should include running, swimming, and cycling. Do not forget that Ojos del Salado's ascent is not a technical climb, but it is physically very demanding and requires an optimal physical shape.
How much weight do I have to carry in the backpack?
In all-day hikes/climbs, you have to carry your small backpack, bringing your water, thermos, box-lunch, warm clothes. That should weigh no more than 5 kg. On summit day, add the crampons.
Otherwise, there is the day you do the porterage from Atacama camp to Tejos camp. There is an off-road trail that connects Atacama (base camp) with Tejos (high camp) but sometimes is barred with snow (calculate 30% possibilities for that) then the team, guests and staff, will have to carry all the needed equipment for the high camp: food, tents, fuel, your sleeping bag, and pad.
The porterage from the Atacama to Tejos is split on two times (two half days) and is a short hike, 3 to 4 hours maximum, with an average load of 8 kg in your backpack.
It is much more likely that you will do this hike just for acclimatization with just your small backpack for the day and that the 4x4 vehicles will carry all loads to Tejos. But this is something we cannot promise because it depends on the snowpack.
Are there age limits to participate?
The Chilean tourism law, through the high mountain standard, NCh2951 Of2005, establishes the following age-related limitations to participate in mountain expeditions:
Children under 15 years of age cannot participate in mountain expeditions.
From the age of 16, minors can participate, duly authorized by parents or guardians, but the following height table must be respected.
Children under 16 years of age cannot exceed 6000 meters.
Children under 17 years of age cannot exceed 6500 meters.
From the age of 18, participants can exceed 6500 meters.
The norm does not establish age limitations for people over 70 years of age. Still, ChileMontana reserves the right to evaluate case by case the convenience of the participation of people aged 70 years or more in its mountain expeditions, according to experience references, health, and physical preparation that the interested parties provide.
The expedition's staff
The ChileMontana staff for an expedition to Volcan Ojos del Salado is made up as follows:
The expedition chief or leader
Is a mountain guide with more than ten years guiding this type of expedition. Can be an internationally certified guide with the UIAGM certification or FEACH certified. Or a non-certified but highly experienced guide. These guides always speak at least English and Spanish.
Check here our expedition leaders
The Base camp manager
The person responsible for the vehicles, the provision of food, water, and fuel, and in general for the proper functioning of the base camp. The BC manager is also in charge of planning the food and cooking. It is a position of enormous responsibility and is always covered by a staff member with more than ten years of experience.
The assistant guide
The guide or guides added as the group is more numerous. They can be internationally certified guides with the UIAGM certification or nationally certified FEACH. or a non-certified but highly experienced guide. These guides always speak at least English and Spanish. They have at least five years of experience in this type of expedition.
How many people make up the staff of an expedition to the Ojos del Salado Volcano?
The number of people on the staff is directly proportional to the number of clients who have signed up for the expedition. ChileMontana guarantees an expedition guide for every three clients.
Important: Currently, Chilemontana offers guaranteed expedition departures with up to 1 and 2 members. In these cases, the staff is composed only of a mountain guide, who will also drive, cook, and take care of the base camp's tasks.
How is the ratio guides/guests in a shared expedition?
The ratio guides/guests is in this kind of expeditions really makes a difference on summit day. In our set departures the ratio is as following:
Small groups up to 4 guests: 1 guide every 2 guests
Groups of 5 guests or more: 1 guide every 3 guests
When should you hire a private guide within the shared expedition?
An option that we offer and that we especially recommend is hiring a private guide within the shared expedition.
The advantages of this alternative are mainly two:
The first is that having a private guide allows you to keep your own pace, without worrying if the bulk of the group has a faster or slower pace. Therefore we recommend it to people who know that they have a faster or slower pace than most mountaineers.
The second advantage is to make sure you won't have to renounce on summit day just because another participant (s) has to. If you have hired your private guide, and the leading guide must leave with the rest of the group, you will have the opportunity to continue the climb with your private without worrying about the rest of the group.
In what language do I communicate with the local staff?
The mountain guides speak at least Spanish and English. In large groups, it may happen that a staff person is not bilingual, but in these cases, there will always be several other guides with whom you can communicate fluently in English.
How is the acclimatization process?
We use the principle of gradual acclimatization, which allows you to participate in this expedition in complete safety and without the need to take medication.
The height of the camps increases gradually.
In the classic itinerary the height of the camps is as follows:
Camp Pedernales (3,362m / 11,030ft) 2 nights
Camp Laguna Verde (4,350m / 14,271ft) 3 nights
Camp Atacama (5,255m / 17,240ft) maximum 4 nights
Camp Tejos 1 night Camp (5.825m / 19.110ft) maximum 2 nights
In the “small group” itinerary the height of the camps is as follows:
Camp Valle Chico (2800m / 8.200ft) 1 night
Camp Laguna Santa Rosa (3,700m / 12,140ft) 2 nights
Camp Laguna Verde (4,350m / 14,271ft) 2 nights
Camp Atacama (5,255m / 17,240ft) maximum 4 nights
Camp Tejos 1 night Camp (5.825m / 19.110ft) maximum 2 nights
In addition to the principle of gradual ascent, we also use the principle "climb high, sleep low" as a fundamental enhancer of the acclimatization process during this expedition. By this, I mean the ascents we do from the second day of the expedition.
Some examples of this strategy are:
The base camp is in Salar de Pedernales, at 3,362m / 11,030ft. We sleep one night there. The next day we go to the summit of Volcan Dona Ines, reaching 5,095m / 16,715ft and returning to the base camp at 3,362m / 11,030ft in a few hours
The base camp is in Laguna Verde, at 4,350m / 14,271ft. We slept one night there. The next day, we go to Volcan San Francisco's summit, reaching 6,018m / 19,744ft and returning to base camp at 4,350m / 14,271ft in a few hours.
Besides, our guides will continuously give you the tips they have learned through long experience to acclimatize you better.
Some essential tips are:
Keep yourself hydrated, eat light.
Avoid alcoholic drinks, drugs/medicines, and smoke.
While walking, keep a pace that enables you to breathe almost normally, with your mouth closed.
During the night, keep partially open the tent's windows and doors. You want enough air to come in.
Learn more about acclimatization tips
Is it convenient to acclimatize beforehand for this expedition?
Always and for any mountaineer, beginner or advanced, the level and quality of acclimatization will be decisive in terms of chances of success, even more so in the mountains of 6000, 7000, and 8000 meters.
On the other hand, we know that acclimatization to altitude is an individual characteristic and that some people need more time to acclimatize.
If you are one of them or if you want to maximize your chances of success, we invite you to contact us to plan a pre-acclimatization expedition together.
It can be in the vicinity of Santiago de Chile, with the climb of Cerro Plomo, in 5 days or the trekking to the Cerros La Parva & El Pintor, in 1 day or a 5-day trek in San Pedro de Atacama
These are just some of the options to acclimatize in the Andes before starting the expedition to the Ojos del Salado Volcano. Please don’t hesitate to contact us for other alternatives.
Is it recommended to take Diamox to acclimatize better?
We recommend using the Diamox only in justified cases in which one is forced to climb in height without respecting the necessary acclimatization times.
And do it only under prescription and with the supervision of the mountain guide.
For Diamox to be effective, it is necessary to start the medication a few days before the expedition's start and take the correct doses.
If for any reason, you decide to take Diamox or any other medicine during the expedition, you must inform the Expedition Chief guide.
How is the summit day of Ojos del Salado?
Ojos del Salado's summit's attempt starts with our arrival at the Atacama camp, which is reached with 4x4 vehicles.
Then, there is a day of acclimatization hike, bringing food, fuel, and equipment, to the high camp, Camp Tejos (5,825m / 19,110ft), and returning to overnight at Camp Atacama (5,255m / 17,240ft)
The next day, we will return to Tejos camp, this time also carrying our sleeping bag. We spend a short night in the Tejos hut or in a tent, before the summit day.
The departure time on the summit day depends on the temperature and wind conditions. It is decided by the mountain guide, who will inform the participants what time they should be ready for breakfast and the departure time.
Once the ascent has started, calculate between 4 to 6 hours, depending on the group's pace, to reach the crater's edge at 6700 meters. From there, we will cross the crater in 45 minutes. We will arrive at the foot of the last climb that separates us from the summit.
This last part of the climb is scrambling on II and III grade terrain, 80 meters of rock (260ft). The guide will belay you for these last few meters of the ascent. Before starting this final climb, you will have to put on your light harness and your helmet to do the climb in complete safety.
The final climb takes about 40 minutes in total.
The guides will have brought the ropes and technical equipment with them. You are only responsible for wearing your light harness and your helmet, already adjusted to put them on very easily.
It is essential to wear the correct harness. It must fit over your mountaineering clothes and be fully adjustable, waist, and legs.
For the descent of the rock wall, the guide will secure you with the rope. Then, once back at the feet of it, you can remove the harness and helmet if you wish. The descent to Tejos Camp follows the same path that you used to climb.
Depending on the schedule and the group's fatigue, we can spend one more night at Tejos Camp or continue directly to Camp Atacama.
What are the determining factors to optimize the chances of success?
In this type of expedition, the chances of success depend on health, weather, prior physical and technical preparation, and the equipment and clothing that we have chosen for this adventure.
Learn more about acclimatization and how to stay in good health on this expedition
Check here the list of equipment to climb the Ojos del Salado volcano
Check if you have the right clothing for this expedition
In the case of shared expeditions, in which the ratio is one guide for every three clients, one way to significantly increase your chances of reaching the summit is to hire a private guide within the same expedition.
This strategy minimizes the risk that the attempt will have to be abandoned on the summit day because another participant cannot continue. If you have hired your private guide, and the leading guide must leave with the rest of the group, you will have the opportunity to continue without worrying about the rest of the group.
What equipment do I need?
The Ojos del Salado expedition requires specific equipment. We advise you to be very attentive to this issue and ensure that you carry the necessary equipment. Being an overland trip with ascents to summits of almost 7000 meters, it is different from most other expeditions you have participated in. Because of this, I ask that you carefully review our equipment suggestions and make sure you are not missing any essential items.
Gear & Equipment List for Ojos del Salado Expedition
What clothes do I need?
Clothing is one of the crucial factors to be successful in this expedition. Please be sure to review our list and our suggestions carefully.
Clothing for Ojos del Salado Expedition
Is it possible to rent the equipment in Chile?
There are some items you can rent in place.
For the Ojos del Salado Expedition, we recommend to rent what you lack in Copiapo, the day before starting our adventure.
Check what items are available for rent, costs, and payment terms.
What happens if I have to go down to Copiapo during the expedition, either for health or other reasons?
There is an additional cost in our shared expeditions if you have to return to Copiapo before the planned date of ending.
The reasons for returning before the end can be personal or health.
It may happen, especially at the beginning of the expedition, that some members develop a serious altitude illness, such as pulmonary edema, brain edema, etc.
It may also happen that the person simply suffers from severe headaches that do not go away with commonly used pain relievers.
In these cases, the expedition chief guide must evacuate the person to prevent the situation from worsening.
This evacuation, as well as the early return for any other reason, has an additional cost. Your compulsory travel insurance should fully cover this extra fee.
The fee is to be paid to the expedition leader before leaving the camp or to the guide who would drive you back at arrival to Copiapo. In U$ dollar, in cash. ChileMontana will provide an invoice for refunding by your insurance company.
Early departure or evacuation from Pedernales Camp or Laguna Santa Rosa: U$d 250
Early departure or evacuation from Laguna Verde: U$d 300
Early departure or evacuation from Atacama Camp: U$d 400
Early departure or evacuation from Tejos Camp: U$d 500
